The DAKS trouser holds particular significance as it is the item that launched the brand in 1934. Alexander Simpson, the second son of the DAKS founder Simeon Simpson, introduced a completely new garment to the fashion industry, the self-supporting trouser. Alec, who was a keen Golfer, felt that braces not only impeded your swing, but also caused your shirts to ride up. He solved the problem by introducing an adjustable waistband that eliminated the need for belts and braces, a small rubber pad was sewn inside the waistband that held a shirt in place. Before this invention, belts or braces were essential for British gentlemen’s trousers.
This invention was patented and marked a revolutionary change in the history of British men’s fashion. Given the name “DAKS TOP”. With regard to the colours and materials of the trousers; DAKS destroyed the myth that slacks were made in only flannel material and grey in colour. This range was made in as many as 50 colours and many materials.’
While looking back at DAKS’ archives and previous collections, the DAKS design team noticed that they had continued the details of the self-supporting waistband across modern cuts and their classic chino’s. However, they had not recreated the famous DAKS trousers as per the original measurements since their initial launch. The oldest pair of trousers DAKS have in their archive dates back to the original 1934’s pair, which are displayed in the DAKS in house archive. This was the starting point for the SS20 archive trouser.
From here the DAKS design team measured, as accurate as possible, the key areas that make a trouser cut distinctive. These areas are the Rise, the pleat depths, the hem widths and of course the DAKS self-supporting waistband details. For SS20 DAKS created two types of cloths for their reimagined trouser, to represent the past and the future. For the first cloth, DAKS selected a slightly heavier cloth in high twisted yarn made from 100% wool. Its weave structure resembles a tight hopsack weave. The second cloth is a lot more modern, it is a wool mix blend, very light, in a crease-free fabric that’s washable.
DAKS design team: “ We need to preserve our history and present it to our modern world while still respecting the foundations of the design and functionality. Wide leg trousers are still around today and is an indication that classic never dies” DAKS wanted to ensure the SS20 trouser was a homage to its history, through the cut, materials, self-supporting technology. The role of the self-supporting trouser is so important to the brand's success and is steeped in history for DAKS. To celebrate this DAKS wanted to craft a garment that had relevance now, while being accurate to the trouser that founded the brand.
The New Archive Trouser